An Uphill Battle. Again.

Stairway leading to the Grand Canyon Lodge
North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

Some Familiar Things Aren't

Here it is in July, 2017 and I have been ignoring my photography since January, 2017. It's not that the photography did anything bad to me, I have just been involved in software development and that has taken precedence over my photography. I've been spending my evenings and weekends studying new software development technologies.

I've missed getting out with my camera, though, and it's never far out of mind. I've got a weekend trip planned to the Chiricahua National Monument that I'm using to kick off my new plan.

Last night I decided I'd charge all of the batteries for my photography gear. Wow. Two batteries each for two cameras. Update and charge the Tether Tools Case Air. Charge the tablet, the Kindle, the portable USB power supply, the RavPower File Hub. I'd forgotten all of those things (could be due to my age).

As I was charging things I did a bit of cleaning. Not that anything was that bad; I'd cleaned things after my last outing to the Saguaro National Park in January. As I was handling my cameras, I couldn't help but wonder about how much I'd remember once I was out trying to shoot a picture. Sure, all the buttons looked familiar and the Nikon D610 still feels good in my paws, but could I still take a picture?

Hit the Trail More Often

Start of Transept Trail
North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

Until I lose my desire for studying software development, I'm going to at least limit it to the weeknights and then I'll get out on the weekends to return to my photography excursions. I'm hoping that this plan will provide a balance that I think I've been missing. I really enjoy getting out of the house but my computer has enticed me to stay inside.

I have to admit, however, that I also feel like I may be burned out on shooting desert landscapes in Arizona. I am going to try to figure out how to overcome that. There is a lot that is interesting about Arizona, that you don't see anywhere else, so it shouldn't be hard to keep interested. I think that what I need is a different perspective.

Striving for a Fresh Start

I have continued to watch photography related videos, as well as reviewing my photographs. One thing that I've noticed is that it takes more and more to "wow" me with a photograph. They all kind of blur together for the most part. I really want to create images that are striking, different. But what does that mean and how can I accomplish that?

One thing I know is that I really want to be more minimalist. I want to focus on one or two things in the image and not present a big confusing mess. Even the images of Bryce Canyon seem cluttered. Tony and Chelsea Northrup recently had an image on one of their photo review YouTube videos with a shot of the ocean, some "God Rays" where one of the rays was pointed at a small and solitary sailing boat. I really liked the simplicity. I want to try to shoot more like that, or at least that sort of clear vision. Perhaps that is due to also enjoying the conciseness of the new C# programming language constructs!

For starters, though, I am at least going to just try to get back out of doors. This picture below is of one of my favorite memories from the last few years of photography. It's nothing special but I just loved sitting in that meadow along Arizona State Route 67 between Jacob Lake and the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. Me, wilderness, warm sun, my camera. I can't wait to get back!

Me and my Nikon
Near Forest Service Road 611 and SR 67
October 7, 2015

Tether Tools Case Air - Review - UPDATED 3 Times

First Real-World Use

My Nikon D610 + Tether Tools Case Air

I finally got out yesterday to take some photographs. I was excited to try the Tether Tools Case Air Wireless Tethering System for the purpose that I bought it - some wide angle shots taken from the ground.

I left Phoenix, Arizona at about 5:00 AM and headed to the Saguaro National Park (west - there are 2 territories for this park) near Tucson, Arizona. It's roughly an hour and a half drive from my home with no stops.

I had only been to the visitor center at the park before, never out on any of the dirt roads. I arrived at the park around 7:30 AM when the sun was just starting to rise and headed northeast up the Hohokam Road shortly after turning on to N. Kinney Road.

It had rained a bit on the drive to the park and I wasn't sure how the skies were going to be. I was hoping for broken cloud cover since the rain had come and gone during the dark drive from Phoenix and it looked like I was going to get what I hoped for. Happy New Year!

I drove to the Hugh Norris Trail head, parked, got out and looked around but didn't see any good saguaro cactus near the parking area and I didn't want to walk far in the desert because, well, you're supposed to stay on the trails.

The Sus Picnic Area

My Manfrotto 055XPROB
(legs not splayed out)

I headed back to the Sus Picnic Area and parked there. There are some nice saguaro cactus there, but not where I wanted them - they were not not lined up well for the rising sun. I walked maybe 100 feet into the desert south of the road to try to get a shot looking south-east where the sun should come up and hopefully light up the clouds.

I fiddled with my Manfrotto 055XPROB tripod to get it into the configuration that allows you to get it close to the ground. You have to switch the center column so that it's sticking out, as shown at right. I've been somewhat looking for a different tripod that doesn't have this fiddly aspect. Manfrotto used to offer a short center column so that you didn't have to fuss with it but they don't any longer and I haven't found one used.

I thought this would be a cool feature when I first got the tripod but after having it since January, 2014, and not extending the center column but maybe 3 or 4 times, I find it's a pain.More often than not I want to shoot close to the ground and I really dislike fiddling with the center column on this tripod. I'm really considering getting a PlatyPod Pro Max.

Trying the Case Air

I attached the Case Air remote to the camera and fired it up as directed (camera power on, Case Air power on, Case Remote app on). Note that I was using my iPhone 5 with the latest iOS update. Everything started up okay and the Case Remote app indicated that it was connected to the Nikon D610. Cool!

But that was about as far as I got. (Here's a link to the documentation if you're interested: https://www.tethertools.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/CAWTS03_ios.pdf)

Case Remote App

On the app you have to click an icon to see the remote
Live View (#8 - the "eye" icon near the lower right of the app). This is supposed to let you see what the camera is seeing by displaying a Live View in the large upper area in the app (#4, where the "CASE Remote" text is).

When the Live View is displayed you can either manually adjust focus by tapping on the left and right arrows (#9 and #11 on either side of the big white shutter release icon), or you can tap on the image and auto focus (if you have auto focus enabled).

In my case, the Live View would only fill up about the upper half of the display area and the bottom half was flashing gray. Within a second or two the app would close.

I tried it probably a half of a dozen times or so with the same results. Since the sunrise was happening, I turned off the Case Air and iPhone, switched to the old school method and bent over as well as I could to use the camera's Live View, hit my back focus to focus where I wanted, and got off a few shots.

I've contacted Tether Tools about this to see what their response is but haven't heard back yet (it is the New Years weekend after all). I'll either update this blog or post another blog with the feedback. I did find others posting similar issues online.
_____________________________

Update, 1/4/2017

I heard back from Catherine at Tether Tools within one day (1/3/2017). She has forwarded my issue on to their development team. I'm not sure if the dev team is in Phoenix (the Tether Tools headquarters is), but if they are, I offered to stop by to show them my problem.

Update, 1/19/2017

TetherTools posted an update to their software and firmware about 1/13/2017. I successfully installed the update on 3 devices - my PC, iPhone, and my Samsung Tab 4 (that's 3 out of the 4 different operating systems they support). Unfortunately the Case Air itself wouldn't update. I contacted Catherine about it...

I heard back from Catherine at Tether Tools today (1/19/2017). She emailed me an RMA so that I can return the unit which I'll do tomorrow at their Phoenix headquarters. I'm taking my camera with me to verify that it works. I appreciate their strong desire to make sure the unit works!

Update, 1/21/2017

I went to the Tether Tools offices yesterday and met Catherine. She pleasantly exchanged my unit for a new one. She later sent me an email letting me know that she tested my original unit but didn't have any issues with it - she couldn't replicate my failure to update the firmware. I don't have any idea why I couldn't do it. She said the problem is typically due to a weak WiFi signal and wondered if my iPhone or other devices had issues connecting. I told her I hadn't noticed issues with connecting before.

After I got the new Case Air charged up today I tried it out. As soon as I fired up my iPhone 5 and connected to the Case Air I got the notice that I needed to update its firmware so I tried it. It worked fine, first time, no issues. One problem solved.

Next I tried to take a picture. This time it worked better. When you take a picture I have it set to send me the JPEG. That auto upload was spotty on the original unit but this time the thumbnails came up just fine. But after 2 or 3 shots the live view preview on the app started flashing gray and the app closed. It did this everytime I tried it.

I decided to try my Samsung Galaxy Tab 4. After getting it up and running and connected, it worked fine. I could take shots and receive the thumbnails. It looks like this will be my solution which is okay except that now I have to carry the tablet with me. The iPhone fits in my pants pocket but the tablet, even though it's fairly small, will be harder to pack somewhere.

The bottom line, though, is that I should be able to use the Case Air now. Tether Tools really stands behind their product. I can't remember ever dealing with a company so willing and desirous to make sure their customer was satisfied. I can tell that Catherine and the others I've talked to there take a lot of personal pride in their products.

I also want to say that I searched online for other reports of problems with the device and didn't find anything. I did find other reports of other users contacting Tether Tools and having nothing but the best to say about them. And, again, I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I am just impressed and pleased with them.

_____________________________

I had seen some issues at home but I had chalked them up as being due to having my home WiFi interfering with the Case Air WiFi. At the park, however, there were no other WiFi networks detected by my phone. In fact, there wasn't even any phone service detected. I tried moving the remote around and my phone around to see if that made a difference but it didn't so I suspect that the WiFi connection was okay.

If the WiFi connection is okay then that leaves either my phone can't handle the data or the data isn't being sent properly. I don't know which is more likely. What I do know is that the device didn't do what I paid for it to do. At this point I'm not impressed and I'm waiting for help from Tether Tools.

Oh, here's one of my old school, non-Case Air shots:

Sunrise at Saguaro National Park

Reflections of 2016

Looking at 2016

I just received an award at my day job yesterday for being an employee for 15 years. It is near the end of the calendar year. Both of these events have caused me to reflect on this last year of 2016.

My DJI Phantom 3 Advanced

I spent a lot of time this past year dealing with health issues. Nothing too terrible, just sinus infections including Allergic Fungal Sinusitis, a nasty little collection of issues that resulted in a lot of down time and 3 surgeries.

At the beginning of the year I added a DJI Phantom 3 Advanced to my photography kit. I wanted to like it but ended up being very disappointed with the still image quality to the point that I am selling it. The video capabilities might be fun for some but I am not looking to do video. The still images are barely useful for posting on social media in my opinion.

I also don't like flying the thing. I got it after it went on sale at the beginning of the year for about $800 for the basic drone but it's still too much money for me to want to lose by running it in to something. It's just not for me.

Arizona's Raptor Experience 

Luna the barn owl
Arizona's Raptor Experience

I didn't really get out to shoot photography until May when I visited the Arizona's Raptor Experience in Chino Valley, Arizona, with a fellow shipmate from my last Navy ship, the USS Paul F. Foster DD-964 where we served together for such fun deployments as the first gulf war.

We spent a few hours shooting various raptors as the owners placed them on various features such as stumps which they had staged around their grounds. It was pretty amazing! I got a few shots that I liked, but the ones of the Harris Hawk in flight made me realize I don't have much practice or skill at capturing birds in flight!

Snowy Egret at Gilbert Riparian Preserve
Gilbert, Arizona

I did get this image of a snowy egret at the Gilbert Riparian Preserve in Gilbert, Arizona, which is my best shot of a bird in flight to date.

My birding experiences made me realize that I really wanted a longer lens. After reviewing the Sigma, Tamron, and Nikon lenses, I chose the AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR. I didn't get out and try it much until later in the year...

In May I also dovetailed in a 1 night excursion  to the Chiricahua National Monument to shoot the Milky Way. I got a decent capture of it and enjoyed my overnight trip.

And, in May, I squeezed in a very short and unproductive visit to Saguaro National Park near Tucson, Arizona. Unfortunately I was only there during mid-day and did not even bother taking any photographs.

After my birding excursions I had a couple of surgeries and during the recovery (as well as a lot of the entire year) I spent my down time reading John Muir books which generated a great desire to visit Yosemite National Park. I put in a request for vacation for the first week of September, following the Labor Day weekend (a holiday for most people in the United States).

California Here I Come

I stayed in 3 California parks: Joshua Tree for one night, Yosemite for 3 nights, and Sequoia for 1 night. I got some shots that I like a bit but I know I could do better so I'm planning to head back sometime. I really want to get back to Yosemite in the early spring in order to try to get some photographs of snow on the ground. And, when I was there in early September, there was very little water in the falls. Yosemite falls was non-existent.

Moon over Joshua Tree National Park, California

Half Dome and El Capitan
Yosemite National Park, California

Sequoia at Sunrise
Sequoia National Park, California

More Parks for Me!

After I got home from my California parks, I was still feeling good (must have been the steroids I was on!) so I decided to take a day trip with my wife and our dogs up to Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and Waputki National Monument, both near Flagstaff, Arizona. After she saw that, I talked her into spending a couple of nights at the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park.

Sunset in Ruins
Waputki National Monument
Arizona

We went to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon for another 3-day holiday weekend for Columbus Day. I got a couple of shots of the canyon that I like but I also got some shots of wild bison that captured a wonderful experience of sitting on the ground  a few feet in front of wild and un-caged bison!

Sunrise at Walhalla Overlook
North Rim Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona

Wild Bison
North Rim Grand Canyon National Park
Arizona

And finally, not wanting to be done for the year, I decided to visit Utah's Bryce Canyon National Park over the Veteran's Day 3-day weekend in November. This trip ended up with the transmission on my Ford Explorer giving out so my visit at the actual park was cut short but I got a shot or two that I like. 

Sunset at Sunset Point
Bryce Canyon National Park
Utah

Six National Parks in 2016

The year's not quite over but I'm not sure if I'll get to any more National Parks before the end of the year. I've got half a notion to try to get to the Petrified Forest National Park but we'll see if I make it. Regardless, I visited 5 National Parks and 3 National Monuments this year that I had never been to before (I visited the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in 2015). 

In every park I got to see something that was new and amazing. There were always photography opportunities that challenged my artistic eye and photographic abilities. Some places actually took my breath away when dealing with the view or the heights or the bison.

Besides the bison, I got to see some other wonderful animals in their natural habitats which is much better than a zoo. I had some medical issues to contend with but it ended up making me appreciate the times that I got out even that much more and makes my photographs more personal as well since they captured what I was able to see and do in 2016. I hope your year was good for you too!

Photographing Bryce Canyon National Park

First Visit

Sunset Point Detail

As I indicated in my previous post, my first trip to Bryce Canyon National Park in November, 2016, did not go quite as planned due to my Ford Explorer transmission failing. As a result, even though I spent almost a week in the area (at Panguitch, Utah) I ended up only spending about 2 and a half hours at Bryce Canyon National Park.

I did not visit all of the view points. I did not even drive to the end of UT 63, the road through the park. I visited the visitors center, the Sunset, Bryce, and Inspiration view points, and North Campground. My sample of the park is limited.

Photographing at Sunset

As I discovered while researching the park before my visit, Bryce Canyon mainly runs north and south. The park is located on the west rim of the canyon. This means that, from the view points, sunrise is probably the better time to take photographs. My short visit was at sunset.

Sun Setting at Sunset Point

At sunset time there can be a lot of shaded area and because the cool hoodoos are mainly close to the west rim, they can be in shadow when the eastern part of the canyon is still lit. You can see this in the photograph at right.

This  makes the photographs hard to post process and basically not terribly attractive. The red of the hoodoos just isn't as spectacular as when they're lit directly. And, as in the picture at right, the near hoodoos are more striking than the distant landscape and should be the focus of the image however, due to them being in shadow, they really don't command the attention in the photograph.

One solution is to crop out the lit areas or to not include them in the crop at exposure time. Another reason to use a longer lens for landscape photography. The crop of the photograph at the top of the page is somewhat different - I was able to get the interesting formations while they were still lit by the sun and to include the "bank" behind them which was in shadow. I'm happier with that composition.

My Favorite View Point

Again, my time at Bryce was limited. But out of the 3 viewpoints I stopped at around sunset, Inspiration Point was my favorite. I felt it provided a nice place to fill the image with hoodoos.

Shot from Inspiration Point

This shot might actually be better in mid-day light. This shot is basically looking north from the view point, perhaps 5 or 10 degrees east of north. I didn't see it at sunrise so I can't say for sure how it would look, but the sun would be hitting the right side of the hoodoos. Perhaps during the winter months the sun rises far enough to the south that it might get more direct sun as it rises.

What's Next?

I definitely want to go back when I am not focusing on my automobile issues. I want to see all of the viewpoints, including the Natural Bridge. From the rim, all photographs have a perspective of looking down at the hoodoos. All of the shots I took are very similar, at least from that perspective. I think you need to hike down into the canyon a bit to get different perspectives.

I think there are probably a lot of good photography opportunities there, and I know it is a destination for a lot of photographers. Personally I didn't find much diversity. Yes, it's different than a lot of other areas but it just struck me that there is really only one subject - the red hoodoos.

Frankly, I think I got spoiled by Yosemite and Sequoia / King's Canyon National Parks. I really like the diversity of subjects at Yosemite - the granite, the valleys, and the rivers and water falls. I had the same lack of enthusiasm at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in October, although I did get to shoot some bison photographs there. I'm trying to keep my enthusiasm up for non-Yosemite landscapes!

Bryce Canyon National Park - Postmortem

I'm Back - Finally!

A selfie at Bryce Canyon National Park

I made it to Bryce Canyon National Park and back but not without some issues...

Per my plan, I headed up to Utah on Friday, November 11, 2016. I expected to just be gone over the 3 day weekend, returning home on Sunday, November 13, 2016. I left Phoenix at about 2:30 AM after filling up with fuel and coffee, expecting to arrive 7 to 8 hours later at Bryce Canyon National Park. I half planned to try to get some sunrise shots along the way if I was somewhere that I thought might be interesting.

I use about a half a tank of fuel in my Explorer to get to Flagstaff so stopped there about 2 hours later to top off the tank and grab another coffee. It was about 25 degrees Fahrenheit when I got out of the Explorer in Flagstaff - that helped wake me up!

Lake Powell Wahweap Overlook

Wahweap Overlook at sunrise

As I headed on up the road it was looking like I'd hit Page and Lake Powell about sunrise. I pulled off the highway to visit the Lake Powell - Wahweap Overlook. I'd tried to go up there a year ago but as I turned on to the road on that visit, my cooler tipped over in the back of my Explorer. Fortunately my sleeping bag was laid out so it soaked up all of the melted ice water! Anyway, I ended up taking care of that mess and never did get up to the overlook.

This time I did go up there, hitting it before the sun broke over the horizon.

I was disappointed in the location. The view of the lake isn't great from there. The main body of water has the Wahweap Marina in it and it just wasn't that pretty to me. At this time of year (November), the sun is rising in the south-east which means you're shooting towards the Salt River Project-Navajo Generating Station and it's tall stacks. Another feature I don't care to take photographs of.

But, I did get a sunrise shot using my 70-200mm lens so that I could narrow my field of view. However, I really wanted a sunburst but forgot to close down the aperture to f/22. So, here's what I got:

Sunrise over Lake Powell

On to Bryce Canyon National Park?

I headed on up the road, passing in to Utah along U.S. 89. I drove through to Kanab, UT where I again filled up the fuel tank and grabbed another coffee and some Pop Tarts. The next stop I planned on was at Bryce Canyon National Park, about an hour and a half from Kanab.

From U.S. 89 you need to turn east on UT 12, which leads to UT 63, the main road through the park. Before I got to the UT 12 turnoff my Explorer started running rough. I turned on to UT 12 and drove through the Red Canyon and made it to the Chevron / Bryce Canyon Pines General Store at mile marker 10, where I pulled in.

Royal Express Automotive

I decided I better head back to Kanab but when I tried to leave the Chevron I couldn't make it up the very slight incline. I had to do a 3 or 4 point turn on UT 12 because there is not much of a shoulder along the road there, and then made it back to the Chevron parking lot.

After some time, and with my wife working on things from Phoenix, we arranged for a tow (through our auto insurance, State Farm), to Panguitch, UT where there is a transmission shop. Eventually, after a couple of hours, I arrived at Royal Express Automotive.

It turned out my transmission was shot. I ended up staying in Panguitch until the following Thursday before it was replaced. I got my Explorer back at about 3:00 PM on Thursday, November 17, 2016. 

Off to Bryce Canyon National Park - for reals

I had hoped to get the Explorer back by 11:00 AM or so, and then to at least do a drive by on my way back to Phoenix. While I was waiting at the auto shop, I struck up a conversation with a woman who turned out to be the wife of a ranger at Bryce Canyon National Park. She convinced me that I should visit it as long as I was this close. So, after getting the Explorer and its new transmission, I headed there.

It was very cold - my Explorer said 21 degrees Fahrenheit - and pretty windy. Everyone was bundled up. I first went in to the Visitor Center to get my National Park Passport cancellation stamp and picked up a couple of souvenirs.

Then I visited Sunset Point, Bryce Point, and Inspiration Point. The sun was pretty low in the sky and the shots weren't that exciting. The scenery was nice but it was so cold that it was miserable to be out on the viewpoints to take it in. I tried, and I took a few shots, but damn it was cold!

I toyed with staying overnight but I thought I'd seen a weather prediction of temperatures getting to about 6 or 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I just couldn't bring myself to going through that after the week I'd spent already. So I settled for a few shots with the intent on visiting again, hopefully when it is a bit warmer!

Sunset Point Detail

Preparing for Bryce Canyon National Park

Heading Somewhere New

I've never been to Bryce Canyon National Park but I'm planning to go over the Veteran's Day weekend. It's not too far from my home in Phoenix, Arizona; according to Google it's about a 7 hour drive. That drive is the route through Page, Arizona.

I don't know if I've mentioned it here before, but I drive about everywhere. I haven't flown for probably 10 years and if I can avoid it, I hope to never fly again. I probably only have a normal amount of fear of flying but I have a huge distaste for the hassle of airports and I like driving and having my vehicle with me. That does mean, however, that visiting the east coast of the U.S. takes more time and effort.

Here are some or most or all of the steps I'm going through to prepare to visit somewhere new...

My 3 Point Pre-Visit Checklist

1. Choose a destination
1. Determine the time available and therefore the maximum distance
2. Look on the map for new destinations
3. Look at pictures taken at new destinations
4. Choose the new destination
2. Determine lodging and dining locations
1. Is free camping available?
1. If not, is paid camping available?
1. If not, where are the cheap motels?
2. Where are the cheap eateries like McDonald's?
1. Are there stores available for sandwich makings?
3. Compile a list of photography targets
1. Research any online guides to the destination
2. Do a more thorough review of any online photographs
3. Look at the Photographer's Ephemeris to note sunrise and sunset times and sun locations and moon information with respect to one or more photography targets
4. Create and print a list of photography targets with notes

Gear Checklist

Since I normally take just about everything I own, which is easy when driving my vehicle, the only real checklist items here are:

RAVPower USB / WiFi Hub

1. Cleaning
1. Clean camera sensors 
1. Built in cleaning plus the "Rocket"
2. Once per year have the sensor professionally cleaned
2. Clean lenses
1. Normally dusting and "Rocket" are all that is required
2. Charge all batteries
1. Cameras
2. Kindle
3. USB / WiFi Hub
4. Small recharger

Personal Items

I also need to pack clothes, a toothbrush, and perhaps some deodorant. You never know when those things might come in handy! I actually keep my travel bag mostly packed with my travel clothes so I don't have to do a lot in this area.

If I'm taking my dog Elmer I throw in his blanket, bed, sweater, and dog food.

My notes about Bryce Canyon National Park

When looking for a destination I settled on Zion and / or Bryce Canyon National Park. Zion seemed potentially more interesting, or at least more diverse. However, until after the Veteran's Day weekend, you have to use their shuttle to get around inside the main valley. I didn't like that for 2 reasons: 1) I'd have to carry gear that I thought I'd use while leaving the rest unattended in my vehicle; 2) it automatically excluded the option of taking my dog Elmer. I chose to go to Bryce Canyon.

I'll only have 1 full day at Bryce Canyon, but since I'm still not physically fit enough to do much hiking, that should be fine. I should be able to get 2 sunsets and 2 sunrise opportunities. There are free camping sites such as U.S. Forest Service "Red Canyon" (although it's closed this time of year) or FR088. I intend to leave on Thursday to get a head start, and to camp for free near Sunset Crater NP close to Flagstaff, such as near the park entrance.

I found a few websites that are helpful when it comes to photographing Bryce Canyon National Park including this one from Bret Edge Photography.

I'm looking forward to visiting this new (to me) park and hopefully getting some great shots!

Party of One!

Clouds over the Grand Canyon

Maybe I'm Spoiled

After my recent visit to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park, I can't seem to get motivated to get out to shoot photographs. I've been through this before and I know it will pass but I don't like it. It seems like I'm cheating on myself.

Besides the Grand Canyon, I had been to Yosemite, Sequoia, and Joshua Tree National Parks the month before. Maybe I've just seen too much beauty in the last couple of months! Maybe I just need to refresh!

Recovery Goals

I have been toying with the idea of visiting Zion or Bryce National Parks this month but my motivation is lacking. I'm not sure why.

Zion looks very interesting but you have to use the shuttle to get around the main valley area. That means I'd have to carry camera gear including a tripod onto a shuttle bus and that seems fussy to me. I can't shoot hand held because of my shaky hands. I've learned that much in the last few years. That means that I can just take photographs that would likely be more of a "snapshot" quality and useful for memories or Facebook but probably not anything I'd print and hang on a wall.

Bryce looks a bit less interesting for some reason but you don't have to use the shuttle bus. I'm sure there are some wonderful images to be captured there from the view points and trails. It actually looks more appealing to me and is where I thought I'd go for a day or two this November.

The Impediment

Me on the East Veranda of the Grand Canyon Lodge
North Rim, Grand Canyon National Park

Where ever I go it will once again be by myself. I think that is what I'm somewhat dreading. I recently posted about my dilemma regarding being solo or with others and I'm still struggling with that. I probably always will. Regardless, this will likely be another lonely trip (I've asked around and haven't got anyone else interested).

My wife started a new job and can't go with me. I don't think I'll take my dog Elmer since dogs aren't allowed on the trails and I want to get off of the asphalt (that's why I didn't take him to Yosemite either).

It looks like it'll be me and my Nikon driving for about 7 hours each way to get to Bryce Canyon National Park. I hope it is ready for some chatting and can keep me warm at night!

My Favorite National Park

I've been Everywhere

Me on the USS Rogers in the Straits of Juan de Fuca
Olympic National Park and Port Angeles, WA
Ca. 1977

Okay, that's a bit of an obvious exaggeration. I've been a number of places on the west coast of the United States and a few places beyond. I went through my grade school and high school years on the Olympic Peninsula and often went camping or visiting around the Pacific Northwest, including innumerable visits to the Olympic National Park and Hurricane Ridge. 

In the Navy I visited overseas to Hong Kong, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Australia, to name a few places.

I've definitely been to Yosemite National Park

Seven weeks ago I visited Yosemite National Park for the first time. I spent three nights there, two full days and parts of two more days. I drove most of the paved roads in the park. I drove from the east entrance to the valley, from the valley to Hetch Hetchy, Glacier Point, and to the south entrance. 

I walked a little bit in the park (I wish it was more). I smelled the smells, felt the Merced and Tulomne river water, laid on some granite near Tenaya Lake, sat in El Capitan meadow and climbed some rocks at the base of El Capitan (just some of the ones laying at the base - no cliff climbing!).

Out of my (this is just between us) 59 years on the planet I've spent less that four days total at Yosemite. So why do I miss it so much?

Withdrawals

Yosemite Valley from Tunnel View

This is the U.S. National Park systems centennial anniversary. As part of their promotion they want us to determine our favorite park. I have to say that mine is Yosemite.

I've been through a divorce. In fact, two of them. When I was separated from my wives and children I missed them and would find myself thinking of them all of a sudden, "out of the blue." During the last seven weeks I've had the same experience with Yosemite. I woke up this morning after some insignificant dreams but as soon as my alarm went off I had a vision of looking at Yosemite Valley from Tunnel View which then fed into a vision of walking along the trail at the base of El Capitan. 

I have similar visions every day. One minute I'm on the shore of Tenaya Lake, the next I'm at Washburn Point. I find my mind drifts off...

Last Friday my wife and I went out to dinner. She was talking about something that I'm sure was very important. My mind was examining a vision of Half Dome and I was wishing I could get closer to the mountain.

A couple of weeks ago my wife and I went to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. I had issues battling the heights on view points. I finally got to see and photograph some wild bison. But the entire time I was thinking to myself "this place is nice, it's better than being in Phoenix, but I wish I was in the Sierra Nevada area, especially if I could be at Yosemite!"

I'm hoping to return in February, to see the valley in the snow. But that really seems like a long way off. It's almost as long as a "westpac!"

Short visit to the Grand Canyon

North Rim of the Grand Canyon

Angels Window Vista

My wife and I were able to get away for a short trip to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon over the Columbus Day weekend, October 7-10, 2016 . Since I'm a state employee I get a good number of holidays and this year I wanted to get back to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and to take my wife Nancy.

We left Phoenix on Friday and drove to Flagstaff where we got a motel. We had our four dogs with us so you know it was a fun time in the Explorer! We stayed at the "Butler" Motel 6 because they always accept pets. When checking in they told me they only accept up to 2 dogs. Oops. They made an exception so we settled in and ordered some Pizza Hut delivery.

We were able to take showers and get going by about 6:30 AM which surprised me. I still expected a leisurely drive because we'd have to let the dogs out a few times along the way and I wanted Nancy to see the scenery along the drive.

Heading north on Highway 89 towards the Vermilion Cliffs

After filling up with fuel in northern Flagstaff, we headed north on US Highway 89 from Flagstaff, past the Sunset Crater and Waputki National Monuments which we'd visited the previous weekend, I noticed clouds towards the Grand Canyon area. The weather report had warned of a chance of rain.

Nancy (and I) enjoyed seeing the western part of the Painted Desert on the Navajo Indian Reservation. It's not quite as spectacular or substantial as in the Petrified Forest National Park but it's very similar. The multi-colored hills along the drive to Page are interesting but we didn't take the time to stop and photograph them.

Before we knew it, the Vermilion Cliffs were visible. Since there were a good number of clouds in the sky the sun was only hitting them directly in a few small areas. They weren't terribly vermilion but Nancy was still impressed.

US 89A spanning the Colorado River at Marble Canyon

Navajo Bridge

We turned west on to Highway 89A at Bitter Springs, eventually crossing the Colorado River at the Navajo Bridge and Marble Canyon. We continued on past the Cliff Dwellers and South Fork of Soap Creek area, with the Vermilion Cliffs on our right, and entered the Kaibab National Forest and the twisty roads heading to Jacob Lake. The desert shrub turned to pine forest as we gained altitude from roughly 5,000 feet at Bitter Springs to 7,900 feet at Jacob Lake.

At Jacob Lake we turned south onto Arizona State Route 67 which leads about 43 miles right to the visitor center at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. We had experienced really good traffic conditions on our drive which really contributed to an enjoyable trip.

We were planning to camp for two days at the North Rim, actually, since the national park campground was full, we were going to camp at the DeMotte campground in the Kaibab National Forest which is about 6 miles north of the park entrance. I didn't mind that at all - it was where I stayed the prior October.

Prime parking spot!

When we got to the  at mid-morning on Saturday we drove past it, continuing on to the park. I wanted Nancy to see the lodge area in the daylight.

We pulled into the busy parking lot at the lodge and as luck smiled on us we got the parking spot closest to the visitor center. The image at left is from last year - we got the same spot this year!

We got out a folding chair and set it up in the dirt near the east end of the parking lot overlooking the canyon. We got the four dogs leashed up, got their water dish, and I sat down in the chair with the 4 dogs while Nancy visited the lodge, store, and view points.

No Fear of Heights for my wife!

Trail to Bright Angel
Photo by Nancy Morter

One of my goals for this trip was to try going out to Bright Angel view point. The prior year I had tried to go out there using the trail that runs below the lodge. I made it part way but then my fear of heights took over and I had to turn around.

Since then I have found out that there is another trail which runs from on top of the hill, starting at the lodge. I have watched a number of YouTube videos of it and felt that since it was paved I might be able to do that trail all the way to the view point.

Nancy went to both of the view points below the lodge. I'd suggested starting with exiting out the lodge to the western veranda and then going down the stairs to the western viewpoint first. Then she could make her way to the eastern "lodge" viewpoint, and continue on along that trail that I couldn't finish, to the Bright Angel view point.

When she made it back to me, she had done exactly that - she'd gone to all three of those viewpoints!

I got my turn to walk around a bit but I just went to the Deli in the Pines and got some pizza for the second day in a row. If I'd thought about it I wouldn't have got pizza in Flagstaff. I like the pizza at the north rim. It may not be quite as good as our Pizza Hut but getting it and eating it at the north rim makes up for the quality. We ate it at the picnic area north of the lodge.

Since it was getting to be about 2:30 PM, we left from there to go set up our campsite while we still had daylight.

Rainy Day

As we headed north out of the park, the skies got cloudier and cloudier. We started getting sprinkles on the windshield and by the time we got to the campground it was a full downpour. We pulled into the parking for our campsite. We decided to wait for half of an hour and if the rain didn't let up we'd just go back home. It wasn't so much the camping itself that was turning me off. I just didn't want to pack up a wet tent and dogs into the Exploder, nor did I think we'd enjoy just sitting in the tent for a couple of days if it didn't let up. And it didn't look like it was going to from where we were.

But then, after about 20 minutes or so, the rain turned into almost a mist it became so light. We decided to stay.

Campsite # 28
DeMotte Campground

We got out the tent and started setting it up. As soon as we had back of the Explorer unloaded and sitting on the campsite table, had the ground tarp out and the tent staked down, the rain started back up good and fierce.

Crap.

We kept going and did get the tent set up and all the gear inside. But since our tent is the kind with nothing but mesh for a roof (you're expected to put the rain fly on after the tent is set up), we had a good amount of puddles on the floor of the tent. We (okay, Nancy) got some of it cleaned up but we didn't have a mop and bucket with us so it was still pretty damp.  It may not have helped that when the campground host came to see us I ended up talking to him for at least half of an hour while Nancy was working to set up the tent.

Wife was cold!

We use cots to keep ourselves off of the floor in the big tent so that part was okay. It was just that the dogs would walk in the water puddles and then jump up on the cots and sleeping bags. It just wasn't the best conditions that we'd slept in.

Of course, once we'd finished setting up the tent and had sat inside of it until about 5:00 PM, the rain stopped coming down. We were just left with the puddles on the floor. Other tenters came in after we were done setting up and pitched their tent in the dry weather. When I walked around the campground later there were a good number of tents that were set up after ours and they were perfectly dry!

The dampness probably helped it seem very cold that night too. In the morning the thermometer in the Explorer indicated a toasty 28 degrees Fahrenheit!

Off to Cape Royal

The following morning we got up at daybreak. After feeding the dogs I made us some coffee and cocoa inside the tent with my Primus stove. We ate some Pop Tarts with our hot beverages and then we were ready to explore Cape Royal!

Cape Royal is at the southern end of the WalHalla Plateau east of the north rim visitor center area. Along the drive you pass the Vista Encada picnic area, Roosevelt Point, and Walhalla Overlook before reaching the large dirt parking lot at Cape Royal. There's a nice paved trail there which takes to you Angels Window and Cape Royal view points. Once again, I sat behind with the dogs while Nancy explored. There are no dogs allowed on the trails.

View from Cape Royal
Photo by Nancy Morter

When Nancy returned, the main words out of her mouth were "wow". That made the trip worth while to me!

We had been to the south rim together in probably 1988 but haven't been back since. We plan to return sometime but frankly I prefer the north rim. I don't remember, however, either of us having as many "wow" moments at the south rim.

Don't misunderstand me. I am not for one minute trying to get more folks to visit the north rim. I think everyone should only visit the south rim and leave the north rim for me! There were enough cars at the north rim as it was!

Back to Bright Angel

Bright Angel Point to the right!

After letting Nancy get her fill of the sites, we drove back to the visitor center. I wanted to try the Bright Angel trail.

I decided to try it without taking any photo gear. I wanted to be unencumbered. I headed along the asphalt covered trail thinking I was hot stuff. Then I got to a point where the trail headed downhill and the trail had a significant crown as well. It is about 3 to 4 feet wide. There were other people coming up and going down, forcing you to hug one side or the other. And on each side are significant drop offs. I got a couple of steps down it and knew that it was too much. I couldn't even think about trying to come back up that trail.

I got some tunnel vision, my pulse picked up, and basically I was scared spitless. I turned around and struggled to get back up to higher ground. What a wus. I was disappointed with myself.

I walked to the lodge and thought I'd try the viewpoints there. I'd done them the year before. But when I got to the west viewpoint I couldn't get out to it either. I didn't even bother trying the east viewpoint below the lodge.

I went back to the Explorer, got inside and calmed down, explaining to Nancy that I couldn't do it. She didn't make too much fun of me as we headed back to our campsite.

Relaxing at DeMotte Campground

When we got to the campsite we started discussing what we were going to have for dinner. Nancy drove over to the North Rim Country Store to get some cooking oil. With that I made some of the hiking type of food we have been wanting to try. I browned up some chicken chunks from a foil pouch in the cooking oil on top of my Primus stove. Then I added a Knorr rice mix with water. When it was ready we put it on some flour tortillas and topped it off with a Tillamook cheese stick before rolling up our tortillas. 

They really tasted good! And we didn't have any plates to wash or throw away! It went down good with our Grand Canyon beer!

By the time we were done and I'd washed my pot and stowed my stove it was getting dark so we headed into the tent. We both started at our Kindles a bit (I read part of my Captain Cook eBook that I was in the middle of). We fell asleep pretty early - about as soon as the sun was gone!

Sunrise at Cape Royal

Sunrise from Walhalla Overlook

We woke up early, about 3:30 AM. I took the dogs out and then took myself to the vault toilet. Nancy did the same at about 4:00 AM. I knew I wasn't going back to sleep so I asked her if she wanted to go see the sunrise over the Grand Canyon. Reluctantly she agreed.

We drove out to Cape Royal again where I stopped at Walhalla Overlook. It was still dark and cold as I sat up my Nikon D610 on the tripod. Nancy and the dogs sat in the Explorer tolerating me.

Once the sun started coming up Nancy thought it was wonderful. I did too. I was liking the photographs I was capturing and was feeling like the trip was going to be worthwhile photographically after all! 

I shot for maybe an hour and then decided to head on down towards the Cape Royal parking lot. I wanted to try a shot of Angels Window as the sun was hitting it. I wasn't disappointed with that shot either!

Angels Window at Sunrise

I really noticed at the Angels Window how quickly the colors disappeared. When I took the shot at right the sun was nice and orange. In about 10 minutes it was back to normal daylight. During that time I took a shot with the nice golden hour sun and within a few seconds (I think I switched the camera from portrait to landscape orientation or vice versa), the next shot didn't have the good light. I'd never seen it change so dramatically over such a short period before!

After I got a few shots we went back to the Walhalla viewpoint to feed the dogs now that the sun was up and I'd got some cool photographs.

Our big dog, Docie, started barking. We looked across the parking lot, across the Cape Royal Road, and saw a mule deer buck looking back at us! Then we saw there were more than one over there.

I got out of the car to try to take a picture. I still had the camera on the tripod. I walked slowly across the road and sat it up and shot. As soon as they heard the shutter they took off. It looked like there had been maybe 6 to 10 of them in the herd. None of my photos turned out.

Oh deer!

When the dogs had finished we headed back down the road. We saw more groups of deer out and about getting their breakfast. Then I spotted something crossing the road ahead of us that I couldn't quite make out. When we got to the point where they'd crossed, we saw there were maybe 3 or 4 wild turkey trying to eat. I rolled my window down and made some noises and one of them stuck it's head up and looked at us then they wandered off.

A short drive after that Nancy spotted a coyote along the side of the road. It was looking over the bank down into some brush that stood between the road and a small meadow. As we slowly approached it wasn't paying any attention to us and then it jumped down into the brush. We assumed that it had its eye on some warm breakfast too!

Nancy said that the only thing missing now was seeing some bison!

Oh bison!

Herd of bison near the park gate

Well, she must have been my good luck charm because about a mile or so south of the park gate we came across a herd of bison grazing along Highway 67! I couldn't believe the luck! Of course we stopped and I took some photographs. 

The bison were impressive. I got close enough to become a bit nervous, probably around 50 feet or so away. There was a group of 3 of them that looked me right in the eye as I was taking their photograph and I was both trying to get the shot as well as wondering if I could get out of their way if they charged!

Bison wondering what I would taste like

After safely leaving the park we headed back to the Phoenix heat. We stopped at the Navajo Bridge so Nancy could walk across a bit, then in Flagstaff for breakfast (I had lunch), and made it back home by about 6:30 PM. A very nice trip before the park closes for winter!