My 2015 Vacation, Part 6 of 7

I woke up sometime around 5:30 AM on 8/5/2015, as the sun was making itself known. I had slept really well in the back of the Exploder, and really was happy with the REI self inflating sleeping pad. I had zero complaints about my sleeping arrangements, unlike when I previously used simple foam pads. I got up, walked to the bathroom, returned and re-arranged the inside of the Exploder, had a breakfast bar, and started my day.

I had reserved a campsite for the day at Cape Lookout State Park, about 81 miles north. According to Google it’s about a 2 hour drive and I had the entire day to do it. Cool! That should leave some time for taking some pictures.

Path to the Pacific at Beachside State Recreation Site

I started by snapping a few iPhone pictures of my campsite at Beachside State Recreation Site with the iPhone. My site was maybe 50 yards from a beach access path, which opened almost directly on to the Pacific and its constant and reassuring gentle roar of the surf. I took the pics but didn’t actually walk on to the sand. As much as I like being at the coast I really am not a big fan of being on the sandy beaches or dunes.

I fired up the Exploder and headed her north along the Oregon Coast Highway (Highway 101) with the sky starting to lighten.

As I came to the Alsea River and crossed the Alsea Bay Bridge at Waldport, the sun was beginning to show above the horizon. I noticed that there was a jetty to the west of the bridge and it occurred to me that there could be a shot of the sun coming up over the bridge just waiting for some tourist that took the time to drive over there.

I looked at Jill the GPS and tried to figure out how to get over there. On my second attempt, after hitting a dead end, I was cruising through the Bayshore area. There are a lot of houses there and pretty much the entire eastern waterfront is private property except for one vacant lot. I drove onto the lot, grabbed my Nikon D610, 50mm lens, and Manfrotto tripod and scurried to the edge of the water.



Alsea Bay Bridge at Waldport

I got set up as the sun was already up over the bridge and realized I couldn’t frame the entire bridge with the 50mm. I didn’t have time to go back and get the wide angle lens, though, so I shot with what I had. I like the results but wish I’d had the wide angle lens. I would really like to go back and try that shot again using the wider lens. Thank you to the residents for leaving the vacant lot, and thank you to the powers that be for a nice image to start my day!

I headed on up the road, until stopping off at Seal Rock State Wayside again. Actually, I stopped at the pull off at Little Creek, just south of NW Cross Street. I got out the Nikon again and took a lot of pictures of the waves hitting the rocks there. I really wanted some sort of wave action and this was about as good as I was going to get in the middle of summer.

I continued up to Newport where I paid another visit to the McDonalds for breakfast and coffee. I took advantage of their free WiFi and uploaded some posts to Facebook, called my wife, and brushed my teeth in the parking lot. Okay, I didn’t need WiFi to brush my teeth.



Yaquina Head Lighthouse

I drove up to Yaquina Head Lighthouse, arriving there about 8:00 AM. I was too late for the golden hour but the sun was still fairly low on the horizon and providing some nice side light. I got some pictures of the lighthouse, the seals on the rocks at Yaquina Head Marine Garden from up above (you can walk down to the rocks), and from the north side of Yaquina Head. I saw some whales spouting but couldn’t really get a picture of them. What a glorious morning it was there! I could easily have taken a position as a lighthouse keeper there!

I did think to myself that I could have used a longer lens while shooting the seals on the rocks. If I’d gone down the path it would certainly have got me closer but I would have lost the perspective of the shot from above. I have a personal philosophy that I don’t buy things just because I think they’d be nice to have, but if they’re somewhat expensive at all and I’m skeptical at all about how much I’d use them I wait until I think I could have actually used the item at least twice before I spend the bucks. This makes occurrence number one for a longer lens (like the Sigma 150 to 600).

After some amount of time at Yaquina Head, I continued on my way north. I drove past Beverly Beach State Park and recognized it as the last place I went camping for many years. My first wife and I camped there in the late 1970’s on our Honda Goldwing. We woke up to rain. The tent and sleeping bags were soaked. We had to crawl out of the small tent (the Goldwing didn’t allow us to take a huge tent) into mud. We had to drive about 120 miles from there to our home in Portland in the rain, soaked and muddy. I didn’t camp again after that until the late 1990’s when my third wife and I started fishing and camping at Detroit Lake in Oregon.

Looking south from Otter Crest Wayside

I made my next stop at Otter Crest State Wayside and the Cape Foul Weather gift shop at about 10:30AM. This is a cute little gift shop perched on the side of a cliff at about 450 feet above sea level. People inside were taking advantage of the whale viewing. I picked up some souvenirs for my wife, a few co-workers, and myself. I took some pics with the iPhone and settled for them without getting a Nikon out. 

After bit more driving I got to Depoe Bay, Oregon at about 11:00 AM. I have always enjoyed Depoe Bay; it resonates with me for some reason. It’s probably my favorite town on the Oregon coast. This was the first time, however, that I actually drove much off of the main highway. With Jill’s guidance I drove to the east side of the bay, past the Coast Guard station, and found a place to park near the marina. I got out and walked around, taking some iPhone pictures of the activity there – people returning from their morning charters were having their fish cleaned. It was a very busy area, people going to and fro, children playing, the smell of the ocean and fish being cleaned, perhaps even some fish tales being told! If I could have a job there I’d have stayed without any hesitation. It made me think of my son and his commercial fishing. I wonder what people must have thought when they saw me walking around with a grin on my face!?

The bridge and marina at Depoe Bay

From there I decided to stop at Boiler Bay State Scenic Viewpoint. I did try some pics with the Nikon there, wanting them to be interesting, but my wanting didn’t make it so. By now the sun was pretty much overhead at about noon, and there really wasn’t much to take a picture of besides the rocks themselves. The best subject were some people fishing on the rocks but even that didn’t seem great. This place is nice when there are heavy swells crashing, mainly in winter, but on the day I was there it was a pleasant summer day, nice in its own right, just not for photographs.

I headed back to Depoe Bay to grab some food at the Sea Hag Restaurant. It’s a place I’ve gone to for years and I’ll always remember taking my kids there. I think the last time we went there we got a bucket of oysters. I just had a wonderful, fresh, cod fish and chips, with a bowl of clam chowder. Yum. Then I got a bag of salt water taffy for my wife before taking some more iPhone pictures and heading north again.



Looking north at Netarts Spit

I travelled through Lincoln City where I fueled up, past the intersection with Highway 18 which leads to Portland through McMinnville and Newberg, where I’d be in a week or so. I continued to Neskowin and then exited Highway 101 onto Brooten Road, passing through Pacific City, and following the road until taking a left on Cape Lookout Road.

I stopped at the pull out that overlooks the Netarts Spit, the base of which is where Cape Lookout State Park campground is located. The overlook is about 325 feet above sea level and gives a nice view of the spit from the south. I tooks some pictures with the iPhone - had to post to Facebook to make everyone that I knew on Facebook who wasn't there with me a bit jealous. Especially the Arizona folks. The Oregonians could get there in a few hours.

I continued on down the hill to the campground and checked in. It was late afternoon and I decided I would put up the tent this time but I wanted to do it before it was dark. I got the camp set up about 5:00 PM and then decided to head on up to Oceanside and Cape Mears.

Cape Mears Lighthouse

There is a small lighthouse at Cape Mears. It's a short walk from the parking lot, perhaps 1/4 of a mile. Note that it is downhill from the parking lot. Going back is a bit more of a chore. There are two paths from the parking lot and both of them have benches along the path so that you can stop and rest on the way up, or stop and enjoy the scenery. This light house is tough to get a good picture of due to the small size of the grounds where it is located and the likelihood of other visitors that will be in the picture.

From there I decided to find something for dinner. I went in to Oceanside but the only thing I could find was a good sized diner and I wasn't really interested in a big meal. I just wanted a cheap gas station sandwich but there aren't any gas stations in Oceanside. I punched "grocery store" in to Jill the GPS and she claimed to find one. When I got there it was an old, closed up building. The next nearest store was in Tillamook so off I went.

I got to Safeway but instead of getting a cold sandwich I bought a couple of pieces of their hot deli chicken and some potato wedges. I already had my own water. I ate in the Exploder while posting some things in the Safeway parking lot. There hadn't been any cell phone reception out on the beach. I watched a cute girl in a car with California plates pull up in front of me and sit a few minutes before a guy pulled up in a car with Oregon plates. She got in his car and they drove off.

When I was done I headed back to Oceanside and located a public parking lot with beach access. I chatted a while with a guy driving a motorcycle who was sitting on a fence playing his acoustic guitar he'd brought with him. He was from a bit of a distance (I think he said he was from Salem) and had gone out for a quick ride but ended up at Oceanside.

Oceanside, Oregon

Oceanside is a cute little town situated mainly on a hillside facing southwest overlooking the Pacific. What a pretty place to live if you can. Even visiting was nice. But the coolest thing are the Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge just off shore from Oceanside. In the summer months the sunset can be lined up between the rocks making for a great sunset photo.

I took the D610 and tripod down to the actual sand. The wind was blowing a bit but not kicking up sand. I got some very nice pictures there with both the Nikon and the iPhone. There were kids on the beach flying kites and I was worried at first that they'd ruin the shot but when I was composing through the viewfinder I found I actually preferred the shot when they were in it. I got plenty of both!


Three Arch Rocks National Wildlife Refuge


After the sun disappeared I made my way back up the beach to the Exploder and then back to my campsite. I got there in near dark. I decided to pour a few ounces of Johnny Walker, reviewed the pics on my cell phone and Nikon as I had a drink, then went to bed and again slept like a babe!

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My 2015 Vacation, Part 5 of 7

I got up somewhat early on Tuesday, 8/4/2015, but wish it’d been earlier. I hadn’t set an alarm (on purpose) so I can’t complain. This was a vacation after all! I’d only driven about 420 miles the day before, and only had to go about 86 miles today to get to Beachside State Park where I had a reservation. But in the last 2 days I’d already racked up about 1,230 miles of driving.

When I went to bed the night before I’d brushed up on some spots I wanted to see, reading this great book I got from Amazon a few weeks before I left on my trip. I highly recommend it if you’re going to visit Oregon: Photographing Oregon. I got the paperback instead of the Kindle version; I’m still not sold on the electronic books. I appreciate that there’s no tree killing involved in the Kindle books but I really like to be able to hold the book, make notes with a pencil, or easily pull it out in a parking lot and read it in bright, direct sunlight.

Sunset Bay

I got up, brushed my teeth, patted my short hair down, grabbed the camera gear, and headed to Sunset Bay State Park and Shore Acres State Park. I’d really wanted to stay at Sunset Bay State Park, which does take reservations, but they were booked up by the time I had started looking.

The sky was already getting light, and unfortunately overcast, by the time I got to the Pacific coast. This was my first glimpse of the actual ocean and it was nice to finally see it. I went past Sunset Bay to the view point just south-west of Norton Gulch, where you actually see the Pacific (okay, you kind of see the Pacific from Sunset Bay but you’re on the inside of the small bay).

Viewpoint on Cape Arago Highway

I walked down to the bench on the bank, looked at the ocean, leaned over the railing to look down at the rocks below. I’d guess they were maybe 40 feet below but the sign on the railing said “Danger – 400 foot drop off”. I thought you’d have to fall 10 times in order to get the 400 foot experience. Next I headed back up through a trail in the dim light which cut through the salal brush. I took a less travelled path that ended abruptly at a drop off and took some pics with the D610.

At 6:14 AM I was finally taking some Nikon pictures of the Pacific coast! Woo hoo! I made sure I got one snapped with the GPS data embedded, then composed a few different shots. I even switched from the 50mm to the 16-35mm in order to get the full view of the inlet I was above. I’m not sure if this is where it happened but I ended up getting a spot on my D610 sensor that shows up in all of the rest of the shots from my trip. Bummer. I’d recently had the sensor cleaned too, just a few weeks before the trip. Oh well, it’s easy enough to fix in Lightroom CC or Capture NX 2.

Sunset Bay Morning at Low Tide

I took some shots there then headed back to Sunset Bay. I walked down to the water’s edge and was actually on the beach itself! I was hoping for better shots there but the tide was out so it wasn’t good for water shots. The sun did start hitting the sides of the southern cliffs but because of the haze they never really turned golden or as bright as I hoped.

These conditions drove home how nice it is to live near a photogenic location that allows you to visit it frequently to shoot in different lighting conditions whether due to weather or time of year, or time of day. I’d blown off the possible sunset pictures the night before and I was already regretting it. It’s not often that I find myself at Sunset Bay in summer where the sun sets at the mouth of the bay. My laziness cost me a night of sunset shots (sunrise shots on the west coast aren’t as dramatic unless you’ve got a nice scene to the east such as I later found in Waldport).

Charleston Marina

Marina at Charleston, Oregon

I finished up my shots then headed back to Charlston where I took a good number of shots at the marina. My boss at the Employment Department in Coos Bay was also a photographer and it was his photos of the Charleston marina that first impressed me with photography. He had printed shots of boat riggings in black and white – pure black and pure white, no shades of gray – and they just seemed very artistic and impactful to me. I was hoping to get some shots there that I liked. I didn’t get the same thing but I ended up really enjoying the memories of him mixed in with walking on the docks and the smells of the bay.

I also met a guy who was fishing and crabbing on the docks. He was on vacation with his family who was still asleep in the same motel I was at, Captain Jacks. We talked about where he was from, how he came to Charleston once a year, and what he was fishing for (cod). It was a great start to another great day.

I headed back to the motel, showered, checked out, and headed to Coos Bay where I took some better pictures with the iPhone of buildings that I worked in, ran my music studio in, ate at, and lived in. Then I started up the coast towards my campsite.

Dunes at Horsfall Recreation Area

I stopped at Horsfall Recreation Area, part of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. When I lived in Coos Bay (okay, I actually lived in North Bend), we used to picnic there a lot. We’d take the kids and grand kids there where they could play on the dunes including dune surfing. I got a few iPhone pics of the dunes but didn’t get out the Nikons there.

I continued up the coast, passing the familiar town names like Glasgow, Hauser, Lakeside, and arrived at Winchester Bay. I stopped there to take some pictures of the mouth of the Umpqua River and Umpqua Lighthouse. This was the first lighthouse of the trip!

Umpqua Lighthouse

Umpqua Lighthouse

This lighthouse is okay but because of the fencing, tourists, parking lot, etc., it’s hard to get a great shot. The lighthouse sits in the middle of flat grounds that are surrounded by less picturesque objects. But it’s still a lighthouse! I’ve never shot a lighthouse picture in Arizona, although Lake Havasu City has more lighthouses than any other city in America at 19 or so, but they are scaled down replicas. Who would believe there are lighthouses in Arizona anyway?

I continued on, and decided to try my luck at the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area but there were no elk to be seen. I took a few iPhone pictures there to prove I had visited the place.

Continuing through Reedsport, Gardiner, past Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park (where I used to have a guitar student that lived near by), and detoured to South Jetty County Park south of Florence, on the Siuslaw River.

Siuslaw South Jetty

The jetty was incredibly windy; I’d guess sustained winds of 30 or 40 MPH. On the river side of the jetty it was almost bearable. I struck up a conversation with a couple of women from Eugene who were getting horses out of a trailer to ride on the beach. They were having trouble saddling their horses so I offered to help since I am pretty much an expert horse helper after helping my wife with her horse at least 3 or 4 times. I felt bad that the horses were going to have to try walking in that wind!

South Jetty at Florence, Oregon

I wanted to scout the actual ocean beach side of the jetty and tried walking over the small dunes towards the beach. There really wasn’t a trail so I figured I’d be able to follow my footsteps back; there weren’t any other footprints in the sand. As I crested the first dune and got in the trough, I turned north a bit and headed towards a break in the grass towards the beach. The sand was blowing really good and I had to shade my eyes to keep the sand out. I couldn’t prevent breathing it though and didn’t really enjoy it. I got to the opening in the beach grass and it was windier yet. I took a few pics with the iPhone and decided I wasn’t going to get the Nikons out in this blowing sand.

I turned around to make my way back and my footprints had all but been wiped away by the wind. I ended up making it back (it wasn’t hard to know the direction I needed to go) but it was a different route since my footprints were gone by the time I got to where I needed to head back over the inner dune.

Haceta Head Lighthouse

Haceta Head Lighthouse from Highway 101 Viewpoint

I got back in the Exploder, rescued it from the sand blasting by heading back inland, then travelled on through Florence where I also used to give guitar lessons, past the Sea Lion Caves, and on up to the viewpoint overlooking Haceta Head Lighthouse. It was good and windy there too, as you’d expect, but I snapped some shots with the Nikon D610. The sand wasn’t hitting us there; it’s about 255 feet above sea level and the coast is pretty much just rocks there.

That is one of the iconic Oregon coast pics – the Haceta Head Lighthouse. My shots probably look like thousands of other shots, taken at about 4:00 PM. I really would like to have got it at sunset but I didn’t so they are what they are. Another reason to visit again soon!

I turn my back to the shore at Cape Perpetua Lookout

Cape Perpetua

I continued on, stopping at Cape Perpetua Lookout. At over 800 feet above sea level it is the highest point on the coast to view the coast. I have a fear of heights but it didn’t affect me much there for some reason. Maybe because I thought I’d safely land in the ocean if I fell? I got some Nikon pics there, and had to use the wide angle 16-35mm to get decent shots, but again I wish they’d been at sunset. I had a lot of that on the trip. Even though I had some time for leisurely shooting, you can’t shoot everything at sunset when you’ve only got 3 nights on the coast (and I’d already blown one of them).

I continued on up through Yachats, San Marine, and Tillicum Beach, saw the entrance to Beachside State Recreation Area where my campsite was, and continued past through Waldport, Seal Rock, and went to Newport.

I had got a lot of mosquito bites in Williams, California that first night, and they were really bothering me. I found a Walgreens in Newport, thanks to Jill the GPS, and got some itch relieving cream. While there I took advantage of the McDonalds and posted some pics to Facebook from the iPhone.

Seal Rock



Beach at Seal Rock, iPhone panorama


Heading back, I stopped at Seal Rock to take my sunset pictures. This was a place pointed out in the Photographing Oregon book as a nice place with some rocks that look good at sunset. I did like the spot after figuring out how to get down to the beach. You need to use the “Seal Rock State Wayside” park which has a trail to the beach. I first tried a view point south of there, near Highway 101 and NW Cross street, but there is no easy way to get down on the beach from there. There was, however, another photog who was shooting from the hill at that location.

I got down to the beach and set up the camera. There were other photogs down there too, lined up about the same as me with some nice rock haystack formations between us and the setting sun.

But then, all of a sudden, the sun just set and fizzled. The sky was a bit pinkish-reddish for a few seconds but even that was not much to write home about. Or even to Facebook about.

The other guys left but since I had nothing to lose I stuck around a bit to see if there might suddenly be a nice color burst. Eventually it just got dark and the shots were unimpressive. I guess they’re okay just from the standpoint that I was taking a picture of the coast which is certainly much different than an Arizona desert, but they weren’t going to be published in Outdoor Photographer magazine! Then I noticed I could barely make out where the trail might be to get back up to the park. I walked towards the cliff and did find the trail, using the very small penlight I had with me I avoided falling off the rocks.



Sunset at Seal Rock Beach, Oregon



Days End

I headed back to my campsite, checked in with the park ranger who didn’t want to talk much because he really needed a bathroom break (as we finished I think he’d closed the window and left the little shack for the bathroom before I got back in the Exploder). I found my  site, backed my Exploder into the parking in the dark which isn’t easy for my old eyes – I had to keep getting out of the vehicle to make sure I wasn’t backing into a tree or boulder – re-arranged a few things in the back of the Exploder, then layed down and to go to sleep at about 10 PM. I’d covered the 86 miles plus in about 16 hours, filling the time with picture taking on some beautiful Oregon coast. I slept with a smile on my face.

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My 2015 Vacation, Part 2 of 7

Drugs

I started staging everything for my trip a couple of days early. I figured out most of my clothing needs and shaving kit needs and packed what I could. One thing I had to take care of was getting all of my prescriptions in advance so that I had enough to last the 2 weeks.

I get my medical prescriptions through Walgreens. I contacted them about how to fill some prescriptions in advance and they told me to contact my insurance company who told me to contact my pharmacy. I love how things are getting simpler in life. My local Walgreens at 83rd Avenue and Lower Buckeye in Phoenix (yeah, a bit of a plug there) took care of everything, and even figured out a way to get me an advance on a prescription the insurance company wouldn’t allow. They were great and I appreciated their help. On the other hand, I hate taking the medications so if it hadn’t worked out I would likely have been just as happy!

 

Reservations

I had made my motel reservations for Port Angeles. In fact, I made them twice. I didn’t have the flyer from my friend Judi and the reunion committee so wasn’t aware they’d made arrangements with a motel for the reunion visitors. I looked online and decided I didn’t want to pay the almost $200 per night the Red Lion was charging so I looked around.

I ended up booking a motel room through Expedia which I’d never used. I let my friend Judi know about it and she reminded what motel that place was and how awful it is (Holiday Lodge, Port Angeles). She let me know of another inexpensive motel that another class mate uses repeatedly so I called them. They had a room available so I decided to take that and cancel the Expedia purchase. This was all on the same day (July 3rd) and Expedia charged me $40 or so to cancel the room. I won’t use them again. Yes, they did have warnings but they also had a notice that cancellations were free. Turns out they were $40 worth of "freeness".

Royal Victorian Motel, Port Angeles

I called the second place back to make my reservation, at the Royal Victorian. The woman at the desk was a very pleasant oriental gal and she was happy to chat for a bit. We made an initial arrangement and then she hesitatingly mentioned they had a cheaper room available. The catch was that it was smaller and didn’t have an air conditioner. I used to live in Port Angeles and had experience with their heat waves. I currently live in Phoenix, Arizona and have experience with the heat there. I asked her what the weather typically is like in Port Angeles and she said it gets into the 70s during the day and the 50s at night. I thought I’d be able to handle that without an air conditioner. She laughed and we changed my room to the one without the air conditioner.

The campgrounds on the Pacific coast of Washington did not take reservations. I called Bogachiel State Park and the ranger said they do fill up but they’re first come first serve.



Beachside State Park, Oregon

I also called a private campground I was interested in staying at in La Push, Washington, the Quileute Oceanside Resort. It had been many years since I’d been to La Push, over 40 years for sure. It looked like they had a great beach to take some pictures of at sunset and the gal at the resort said I didn’t need a reservation for the campsites. I decided I could take my chances because it’s only about 60 miles from that area to Port Angeles and I was sure that if nothing else I could just go to Port Angeles and get a motel room.


I made reservations at Beachside State Park and Cape Lookout State Park in Oregon, both of which offered showers and camping near the beach. The reservations were about $29 per night. I was set for most of my accommodations.



Cape Lookout State Park, Oregon

The only other night I needed to address was the first night on the coast but I wasn’t sure where that would be so I decided I would play it by ear, getting a motel room somewhere if necessary. As it turned out, I stayed in a motel, but more on that later.

 

Batteries

I also charged up all of my devices to have them ready to go. That included my Kindle, my RAVPower RP-WD01, my 4 camera batteries, my 4 Eneloop flash batteries, and my MP3 player. I ensured I had my power inverter and charger unit with me. I ensured all of my SD cards were formatted.

Final Packing

My Exploder Camping Quarters

I packed my new self inflating air mattress from REI, my sleeping bag, a blanket, and a pillow. I didn’t plan to cook while camping but took a cooler to store a few things in, a bin with a box of crackers, some Vanilla Wafers and breakfast bars and sugar free hard candy.

On Sunday, August 2nd, I had all of my stuff ready and eventually packed in the Exploder. I laid my one sport coat I was taking, a dress shirt, and slacks on top of everything and I was ready to go!

I said goodbye to my wife, my dogs, and I was off on my adventure!


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