My 2015 Vacation, Part 5 of 7

I got up somewhat early on Tuesday, 8/4/2015, but wish it’d been earlier. I hadn’t set an alarm (on purpose) so I can’t complain. This was a vacation after all! I’d only driven about 420 miles the day before, and only had to go about 86 miles today to get to Beachside State Park where I had a reservation. But in the last 2 days I’d already racked up about 1,230 miles of driving.

When I went to bed the night before I’d brushed up on some spots I wanted to see, reading this great book I got from Amazon a few weeks before I left on my trip. I highly recommend it if you’re going to visit Oregon: Photographing Oregon. I got the paperback instead of the Kindle version; I’m still not sold on the electronic books. I appreciate that there’s no tree killing involved in the Kindle books but I really like to be able to hold the book, make notes with a pencil, or easily pull it out in a parking lot and read it in bright, direct sunlight.

Sunset Bay

I got up, brushed my teeth, patted my short hair down, grabbed the camera gear, and headed to Sunset Bay State Park and Shore Acres State Park. I’d really wanted to stay at Sunset Bay State Park, which does take reservations, but they were booked up by the time I had started looking.

The sky was already getting light, and unfortunately overcast, by the time I got to the Pacific coast. This was my first glimpse of the actual ocean and it was nice to finally see it. I went past Sunset Bay to the view point just south-west of Norton Gulch, where you actually see the Pacific (okay, you kind of see the Pacific from Sunset Bay but you’re on the inside of the small bay).

Viewpoint on Cape Arago Highway

I walked down to the bench on the bank, looked at the ocean, leaned over the railing to look down at the rocks below. I’d guess they were maybe 40 feet below but the sign on the railing said “Danger – 400 foot drop off”. I thought you’d have to fall 10 times in order to get the 400 foot experience. Next I headed back up through a trail in the dim light which cut through the salal brush. I took a less travelled path that ended abruptly at a drop off and took some pics with the D610.

At 6:14 AM I was finally taking some Nikon pictures of the Pacific coast! Woo hoo! I made sure I got one snapped with the GPS data embedded, then composed a few different shots. I even switched from the 50mm to the 16-35mm in order to get the full view of the inlet I was above. I’m not sure if this is where it happened but I ended up getting a spot on my D610 sensor that shows up in all of the rest of the shots from my trip. Bummer. I’d recently had the sensor cleaned too, just a few weeks before the trip. Oh well, it’s easy enough to fix in Lightroom CC or Capture NX 2.

Sunset Bay Morning at Low Tide

I took some shots there then headed back to Sunset Bay. I walked down to the water’s edge and was actually on the beach itself! I was hoping for better shots there but the tide was out so it wasn’t good for water shots. The sun did start hitting the sides of the southern cliffs but because of the haze they never really turned golden or as bright as I hoped.

These conditions drove home how nice it is to live near a photogenic location that allows you to visit it frequently to shoot in different lighting conditions whether due to weather or time of year, or time of day. I’d blown off the possible sunset pictures the night before and I was already regretting it. It’s not often that I find myself at Sunset Bay in summer where the sun sets at the mouth of the bay. My laziness cost me a night of sunset shots (sunrise shots on the west coast aren’t as dramatic unless you’ve got a nice scene to the east such as I later found in Waldport).

Charleston Marina

Marina at Charleston, Oregon

I finished up my shots then headed back to Charlston where I took a good number of shots at the marina. My boss at the Employment Department in Coos Bay was also a photographer and it was his photos of the Charleston marina that first impressed me with photography. He had printed shots of boat riggings in black and white – pure black and pure white, no shades of gray – and they just seemed very artistic and impactful to me. I was hoping to get some shots there that I liked. I didn’t get the same thing but I ended up really enjoying the memories of him mixed in with walking on the docks and the smells of the bay.

I also met a guy who was fishing and crabbing on the docks. He was on vacation with his family who was still asleep in the same motel I was at, Captain Jacks. We talked about where he was from, how he came to Charleston once a year, and what he was fishing for (cod). It was a great start to another great day.

I headed back to the motel, showered, checked out, and headed to Coos Bay where I took some better pictures with the iPhone of buildings that I worked in, ran my music studio in, ate at, and lived in. Then I started up the coast towards my campsite.

Dunes at Horsfall Recreation Area

I stopped at Horsfall Recreation Area, part of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. When I lived in Coos Bay (okay, I actually lived in North Bend), we used to picnic there a lot. We’d take the kids and grand kids there where they could play on the dunes including dune surfing. I got a few iPhone pics of the dunes but didn’t get out the Nikons there.

I continued up the coast, passing the familiar town names like Glasgow, Hauser, Lakeside, and arrived at Winchester Bay. I stopped there to take some pictures of the mouth of the Umpqua River and Umpqua Lighthouse. This was the first lighthouse of the trip!

Umpqua Lighthouse

Umpqua Lighthouse

This lighthouse is okay but because of the fencing, tourists, parking lot, etc., it’s hard to get a great shot. The lighthouse sits in the middle of flat grounds that are surrounded by less picturesque objects. But it’s still a lighthouse! I’ve never shot a lighthouse picture in Arizona, although Lake Havasu City has more lighthouses than any other city in America at 19 or so, but they are scaled down replicas. Who would believe there are lighthouses in Arizona anyway?

I continued on, and decided to try my luck at the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area but there were no elk to be seen. I took a few iPhone pictures there to prove I had visited the place.

Continuing through Reedsport, Gardiner, past Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park (where I used to have a guitar student that lived near by), and detoured to South Jetty County Park south of Florence, on the Siuslaw River.

Siuslaw South Jetty

The jetty was incredibly windy; I’d guess sustained winds of 30 or 40 MPH. On the river side of the jetty it was almost bearable. I struck up a conversation with a couple of women from Eugene who were getting horses out of a trailer to ride on the beach. They were having trouble saddling their horses so I offered to help since I am pretty much an expert horse helper after helping my wife with her horse at least 3 or 4 times. I felt bad that the horses were going to have to try walking in that wind!

South Jetty at Florence, Oregon

I wanted to scout the actual ocean beach side of the jetty and tried walking over the small dunes towards the beach. There really wasn’t a trail so I figured I’d be able to follow my footsteps back; there weren’t any other footprints in the sand. As I crested the first dune and got in the trough, I turned north a bit and headed towards a break in the grass towards the beach. The sand was blowing really good and I had to shade my eyes to keep the sand out. I couldn’t prevent breathing it though and didn’t really enjoy it. I got to the opening in the beach grass and it was windier yet. I took a few pics with the iPhone and decided I wasn’t going to get the Nikons out in this blowing sand.

I turned around to make my way back and my footprints had all but been wiped away by the wind. I ended up making it back (it wasn’t hard to know the direction I needed to go) but it was a different route since my footprints were gone by the time I got to where I needed to head back over the inner dune.

Haceta Head Lighthouse

Haceta Head Lighthouse from Highway 101 Viewpoint

I got back in the Exploder, rescued it from the sand blasting by heading back inland, then travelled on through Florence where I also used to give guitar lessons, past the Sea Lion Caves, and on up to the viewpoint overlooking Haceta Head Lighthouse. It was good and windy there too, as you’d expect, but I snapped some shots with the Nikon D610. The sand wasn’t hitting us there; it’s about 255 feet above sea level and the coast is pretty much just rocks there.

That is one of the iconic Oregon coast pics – the Haceta Head Lighthouse. My shots probably look like thousands of other shots, taken at about 4:00 PM. I really would like to have got it at sunset but I didn’t so they are what they are. Another reason to visit again soon!

I turn my back to the shore at Cape Perpetua Lookout

Cape Perpetua

I continued on, stopping at Cape Perpetua Lookout. At over 800 feet above sea level it is the highest point on the coast to view the coast. I have a fear of heights but it didn’t affect me much there for some reason. Maybe because I thought I’d safely land in the ocean if I fell? I got some Nikon pics there, and had to use the wide angle 16-35mm to get decent shots, but again I wish they’d been at sunset. I had a lot of that on the trip. Even though I had some time for leisurely shooting, you can’t shoot everything at sunset when you’ve only got 3 nights on the coast (and I’d already blown one of them).

I continued on up through Yachats, San Marine, and Tillicum Beach, saw the entrance to Beachside State Recreation Area where my campsite was, and continued past through Waldport, Seal Rock, and went to Newport.

I had got a lot of mosquito bites in Williams, California that first night, and they were really bothering me. I found a Walgreens in Newport, thanks to Jill the GPS, and got some itch relieving cream. While there I took advantage of the McDonalds and posted some pics to Facebook from the iPhone.

Seal Rock



Beach at Seal Rock, iPhone panorama


Heading back, I stopped at Seal Rock to take my sunset pictures. This was a place pointed out in the Photographing Oregon book as a nice place with some rocks that look good at sunset. I did like the spot after figuring out how to get down to the beach. You need to use the “Seal Rock State Wayside” park which has a trail to the beach. I first tried a view point south of there, near Highway 101 and NW Cross street, but there is no easy way to get down on the beach from there. There was, however, another photog who was shooting from the hill at that location.

I got down to the beach and set up the camera. There were other photogs down there too, lined up about the same as me with some nice rock haystack formations between us and the setting sun.

But then, all of a sudden, the sun just set and fizzled. The sky was a bit pinkish-reddish for a few seconds but even that was not much to write home about. Or even to Facebook about.

The other guys left but since I had nothing to lose I stuck around a bit to see if there might suddenly be a nice color burst. Eventually it just got dark and the shots were unimpressive. I guess they’re okay just from the standpoint that I was taking a picture of the coast which is certainly much different than an Arizona desert, but they weren’t going to be published in Outdoor Photographer magazine! Then I noticed I could barely make out where the trail might be to get back up to the park. I walked towards the cliff and did find the trail, using the very small penlight I had with me I avoided falling off the rocks.



Sunset at Seal Rock Beach, Oregon



Days End

I headed back to my campsite, checked in with the park ranger who didn’t want to talk much because he really needed a bathroom break (as we finished I think he’d closed the window and left the little shack for the bathroom before I got back in the Exploder). I found my  site, backed my Exploder into the parking in the dark which isn’t easy for my old eyes – I had to keep getting out of the vehicle to make sure I wasn’t backing into a tree or boulder – re-arranged a few things in the back of the Exploder, then layed down and to go to sleep at about 10 PM. I’d covered the 86 miles plus in about 16 hours, filling the time with picture taking on some beautiful Oregon coast. I slept with a smile on my face.

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